Livorno - Marseille via Corsica 30th Sept - 6th October

I originally had planned big mileage to get from Florence to Marseille by bike, but I knew my leg wasn’t up to it so I diverted to a Corsica plan where the ferries would take a lot of the mileage for me. 

The ferry from Livorno to Bastia was surprisingly busy for a Saturday afternoon outside of the school holidays. Only two other cyclists on board - and they didn't seem up for a chat! It was hot and lovely and blowy up on top and the views coming in to the Island were great. 

On the ferry: Livorno - Bastia

Corsica on the horizon

I had spent a lot of time agonsing over the route as I really wanted to ride around the island's wild northernmost coast - Cap Corte but wasn't sure my leg would comply - and there weren't any 'get-outs' if things did go wrong. So I decided on a slightly shorter route with less elevation - right across the middle. The first day took me down the East coast, initially on a slim peninsular between the sea and a lake, famous for bird watching. I saw a lot of flamingos and eagles up close - amazing. Then I was back on to the main road which was horribly loud and full of fast I-wonder-if-this-one-will-squash-me traffic. It was made better by the empty beaches, refreshing swims in clear water and the inviting mountains in the distance.

Arriving in Bastia after dark

Morning swim location

An eagle?

Lunch swim location

I stayed in a very 'rustic' campsite and enjoyed meeting the goats and eating the chicken's eggs. 

Rustic camping

Solo camping set up

Next day I had to get over the mountains. Started early to give myself the best chance possible, wound slowly up the cliff edge roads, took plenty of breaks to manage the 36 degree heat and was totally delighted when I made it to Ghisoni. I was only person staying in the Gite d'Etape so had a dormitory and incredible meal all to myself (vegetarianism paused). 

Vineyards with mountains in the distance

Risky roads

Cliff edge roads

All road signs in French and Corsican. French version often crossed out or with bullet holes through. Also lots of graffiti saying 'Corsica is not France’

Lunch stop on the way up the mountain

Corsica mountain views

Almost at Ghisoni

Ghisoni

Refuge dinner - I had no choice except steak (and it was delicious)

The next day, I took in two beautiful cols and felt like a hero, before returning to the land of civilisation and my stay with a Warmshowers French family on the outskirts of Ajaccio. They moved to Corsica from Lyon a year ago and seem to be totally delighted with their excellent life decision.

Looking back at Ghisoni as I ascended the next morning

Free range corsican pigs

Corsican mountains pano

Col de sorba/Bocca di sorba

Col de Vizzavona/Bocca di vizzavona

Warmshowers pool

Exploring around Ajaccio, I most loved the Pointe de la Parata where I walked the coast path, stopped to eat my packed lunch and saw dolphins. Does it get any better than than this?!

Endless clear water beaches

Walking around pointe de La Parata

Saw dolphins from here

Corsican sunset as I left on the ferry

My ferry to Marseille was an overnight job - so I had a little cabin all to myself. After a sunset on deck soon after we left, I retreated there and despite brief Titanic concerns, enjoyed my cosy sleeping box and rolled off the boat at 7am the next morning well rested. 

Books read:

Three started but none finished this week 

Miles cycled over Corsica: 162 

Florence - Livorno via Tuscany hills 22nd - 30th September

Having recently read Still Life, Sarah Winman and A Room With a View, EM Forster, I was full of anticipation about Florence, its places, stories and impressive history.

Emily and Felicity arrived on Saturday morning via Pisa following a Friday night flight cancellation and were impressively ready and raring to go despite their 3am alarms. We had a dreamy three days of catching up, eating, drinking and ticking off as many of the Florence essentials as we could.  

First drink of the trip

Love a walking tour

Campanile di Giotto

In the Uffizi

Cycling to/from the vineyard tour/wine tasting

Wine tour and tasting with Roberto- 
learning about Chianti Classico

View from Piazzale Michelangelo

When they left on Tuesday morning it was a bit of a shock to the system to be alone again. But I managed to pedal away over the Arno and up and down some incredibly steep hills to find my campsite. It’s definitely harder to camp in Italy than in France and it feels harder to cycle too - fewer cycle lanes and more sudden 20% + inclines . However it turned out that this campsite was dreamy, had an infinity pool and a space to do some work the next morning. 

Looking back at Florence as I crossed the Arno to leave

Campsite south of Florence

Tuscan hills and the Apaun Alps in the background 

After that I rode along the valley and busy roads - but then up very steep little ones to get to the hotel I’d booked so that I could work there. It was a big but beautiful climb and I was chuffed when I realised I'd made it to the top without having to stop and push - the leg was improving! 

Loads of cyclists training on the hills around there - matching kits, no bags adding weight like mine and all whizzing past at speed. 

Tuscan view from the roof top pool and restaurant in San Baronto 

The next day I headed towards Lucca following a recommendation. Following a night in a hostel in the suburbs, I loved my ride around the city walls, the little squares, excellent stuffed croissant and the relaxed and contented feel there. Thanks Sara for the suggestion to include it in my route. 

 

Lucca’s city walls

It was a big day for sightseeing as I rode on to Pisa next. I was amazed by how many people were taking the obligatory photo of them holding up the tower… but actually Pisa was lovely. A great little old town and lots of university buildings and students.

Pisa

Crossing the Arno in Pisa - very similar to Florence

 

Next up was a ride along a great cycle path to the sea, a swim and my lunch and then a campsite just outside Livorno.  Another patch of dust experience but hey ho. Met some other cyclists and shared stories and routes. 

Next morning I ventured to the other side of the city to find a Decathlon which thankfully had the right gas for my stove as well as a couple of other things I needed. Then a great pizza for lunch, a look around Livorno (a lot more interesting than expected) and on to the ferry for the trip to Corsica. 

Terrazza Mascagni - Livorno

My last stop before the ferry

Essential stats

Distance cycled: 135 miles 

Books read:

The Audacity - Katherine Ryan ****

One More Croissant for the Road - Felicity Cloaker ****

Route: