I originally had planned big mileage to get from Florence to Marseille by bike, but I knew my leg wasn’t up to it so I diverted to a Corsica plan where the ferries would take a lot of the mileage for me.
The ferry from Livorno to Bastia was surprisingly busy for a Saturday afternoon outside of the school holidays. Only two other cyclists on board - and they didn't seem up for a chat! It was hot and lovely and blowy up on top and the views coming in to the Island were great.
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| On the ferry: Livorno - Bastia |
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| Corsica on the horizon |
I had spent a lot of time agonsing over the route as I really wanted to ride around the island's wild northernmost coast - Cap Corte but wasn't sure my leg would comply - and there weren't any 'get-outs' if things did go wrong. So I decided on a slightly shorter route with less elevation - right across the middle. The first day took me down the East coast, initially on a slim peninsular between the sea and a lake, famous for bird watching. I saw a lot of flamingos and eagles up close - amazing. Then I was back on to the main road which was horribly loud and full of fast I-wonder-if-this-one-will-squash-me traffic. It was made better by the empty beaches, refreshing swims in clear water and the inviting mountains in the distance.
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| Arriving in Bastia after dark |
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| Morning swim location |
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| An eagle? |
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| Lunch swim location |
I stayed in a very 'rustic' campsite and enjoyed meeting the goats and eating the chicken's eggs.
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| Rustic camping |
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| Solo camping set up |
Next day I had to get over the mountains. Started early to give myself the best chance possible, wound slowly up the cliff edge roads, took plenty of breaks to manage the 36 degree heat and was totally delighted when I made it to Ghisoni. I was only person staying in the Gite d'Etape so had a dormitory and incredible meal all to myself (vegetarianism paused).
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| Vineyards with mountains in the distance |
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| Risky roads |
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| Cliff edge roads |
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All road signs in French and Corsican. French version often crossed out or with bullet holes through. Also lots of graffiti saying 'Corsica is not France’
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| Lunch stop on the way up the mountain |
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| Corsica mountain views |
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| Almost at Ghisoni |
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| Ghisoni |
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| Refuge dinner - I had no choice except steak (and it was delicious) |
The next day, I took in two beautiful cols and felt like a hero, before returning to the land of civilisation and my stay with a Warmshowers French family on the outskirts of Ajaccio. They moved to Corsica from Lyon a year ago and seem to be totally delighted with their excellent life decision.
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| Looking back at Ghisoni as I ascended the next morning |
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| Free range corsican pigs |
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| Corsican mountains pano |
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| Col de sorba/Bocca di sorba |
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| Col de Vizzavona/Bocca di vizzavona |
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| Warmshowers pool |
Exploring around Ajaccio, I most loved the Pointe de la Parata where I walked the coast path, stopped to eat my packed lunch and saw dolphins. Does it get any better than than this?!
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| Endless clear water beaches |
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| Walking around pointe de La Parata |
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| Saw dolphins from here |
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| Corsican sunset as I left on the ferry |
My ferry to Marseille was an overnight job - so I had a little cabin all to myself. After a sunset on deck soon after we left, I retreated there and despite brief Titanic concerns, enjoyed my cosy sleeping box and rolled off the boat at 7am the next morning well rested.
Books read:
Three started but none finished this week
Miles cycled over Corsica: 162
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