What a week! Montpellier, a jazz concert, the Carmargue, Roman architecture, two punctures, various disasters, generosity from strangers, perched villages, lavender fields, river, lakes and mountains!
The first day was the worst...
I made an error of judgement in deciding to head south to the coast rather than through Nimes. I hit extreme tourism at Le Grande Motte and was so stressed out by it that I lost my way entirely and ended up cycling around what felt like every resort in the area! Once I'd got out of there I travelled north through the Camargue region, enjoying the sights of the marshes and traditional white horses and black bulls. The day was made challenging once again but by mosquitoes this time. It was extreme! I couldn't stop for more than a minute without them attacking me ferociously- even biting through my cycling shorts! The next problem was a puncture (my first!) which I took ages trying to repair before finding it leaked and then having to replace the inner tube. My insect repellant ran out. I arrived at my destination- Arles- at 9pm. The campsite I was aiming for didn't exist. I finally found a bed in a hotel at 10pm. The bar was closed. I managed to make a cup of tea for myself to aid recovery... Phew!
Repair time
Lots of old buildings
I've never been someone who cared or knew much about buildings but visiting Arles and Avignon (and Provence in general actually) has changed that. I got up early in Arles and saw the Roman amphitheatre and theatre when no one else was around and it really was impressive. To think of that amphitheatre being built before Jesus' time....unbelievable! Imagining all of the gladiator conquests and events that took place there filled my head for a couple of hours of cycling following my visit.
Amphitheatre in Arles in the early morning sunshine
The Palais des Papes, Avignon
I arrived in Avingnon during the performing arts festival. Fun atmosphere- similar to Edinburgh.
I enjoyed watching these two. Contemporary dance teamed with French style classical guitar.
A cyclist's dreamland
The landscape continually took my breath away-literally!.After a month of cycling along the flat my legs were initially complaining, but the ups and downs of the hills, the fields full of fruits, lavender and sunflowers and the mountains in the distance were a stunning combination. I followed half of the tour of the Luberon from Cavaillon to Forcalquier. It's a really well planned cycle route, if a bit wiggly, all along minor roads and taking in many of the perched villages as well as great view points which were worth the climbs to get to them!
It's a shame it didn't focus...
Provence hills
The top of my first big climb. The view was worth it. I was too late in the season for purple lavender though.
The sunset from a campsite one night
Saint-Michael-l'Observatoire. They built an observatory here in 1937!
After Forcalquier I turned north and began travelling through the Alps de Haute-Provence. It feels like my first month's cycling has all been a warm up for this- these mountains are huge! But I'm enjoying the challenge, the pride you feel at the top and the thumbs up and big grins I get from the very few other female cyclists I see on the road.
Views of mountains. Fear and excitement in my belly!
A brief detour to see the Gorges de la Meouge
Keeping up with a 'proper' cyclist. And he didn't even have panniers to slow him down
Lac Serre-Poncon (just visible)
Generosity from strangers...
...repeatedly grows my faith in the goodness of people, making me love the world more and feel scared of it less. This week's generosity highlights have included the man who drove me to Decathlon when I had my second puncture and no spare inner tube, my second set of Warmshowers hosts who took me to a brilliant jazz concert when I stayed with them for the night, Tabitha and her mum who I camped next to one night and who helped me to plan my route and Wiz and Phillipe who I stayed with in Cruis. I couldn't find a campsite so called them to ask for a bed in one of their gites but when they didn't have space they let me stay at their house instead. Wiz gave me tea and cake which was just the best thing when I arrived after a hard cycle. Then I joined her and friends who took out one of her donkeys and a cart for a local ride! We ate amazing food and chatted for hours. Lucky me. Their house is perched on the side of a mountain and has incredible views across Provence and into the Alps. If you're looking for a holiday in a quiet and less touristy area of Provence or are cycling through and need to stop for a night, you should go and stay with them! Www.wizinfrance.com (given up with hyper links- can't get them working on this app!)
I'm well and truly into the Alps now and have a lot of big climbs ahead of me over the next few days. Next time I write, I'll be in Italy!
Just spent half an hour trying to map the route to put on here...and then it crashed and didn't save. Obviously. That will have to wait.
Until next time...happy summer everyone!
Brilliant blog Emily, Martin H-J
ReplyDeleteThanks Martin! Great to hear from you.
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